Interview With Guo Pei, Senior Designer In China
Guo Pei
China's senior custom designer, founder of rose Fang, once designed the 2008 Beijing Olympic awards dress, is the host of many Spring Festival Gala hosts and stars.
Three years ago, after finishing the "one thousand and two night" advanced customization release show, Guo Pei found her way to work hard in the future.
After three years of preparation, she launched the concept of "Chinese bride" this year, holding the "Dragon Story" fashion show and the "Chinese wedding dress" static exhibition.
"Chinese bride is the heritage of national culture.
Chinese wedding dress
Although it is doing a tradition, it embodies the inheritance of the national spirit. In my opinion, this is also a fashion. "
Guo Pei said.
Don't play the role of listeners blindly.
Reporter: for more ordinary people, it may be fashionable or something more concrete, such as clothing, bags, shoes and so on.
Guo Pei: indeed, fashion has many forms, but it is deeper, wider and wider than what we see and hear.
Fashion is a fashion, which involves the issue of the right to speak in fashion. Maybe some people are more influential, some are narrower, and whether they have the right to speak is largely determined by the economy.
We say that the former fashion trend is a reflection of society. It is a manifestation of war, women's Liberation and various ideological trends on clothing. But today, the fashion trend is controlled, and the power of discourse is manipulated in the hands of large fashion groups. They tell stories to us, which is very different from that of 30 years ago. They say that the pattern of flowers and birds is popular this year, and everyone thinks it is fashion, but in fact it is not.
I think today's fashion trend, like the stock market, is controlled, and the result of control is the acquisition of business and business interests. Young people will become more and more blind in pursuit of these trends.
The real fashion is beyond control. It is a kind of spiritual yearning.
Reporter: in your opinion, what is lacking in Chinese fashion?
Guo Pei: lack of a kind of
Fashion spirit
。
For many reasons, we often follow blindly, see what others do and say, and play the role of listeners.
The Chinese have a modest character, but humility can lead to inferiority.
But I think this is just a process on the road to fashion. No matter how brilliant it has been before, we have been closed up. It has been only 30 years since reform and opening up. It is a bit of a blank for many new things. After the Olympic Games, I feel that the national spirit has awakened and everyone is more confident.
Going abroad to do exhibitions and winning respect
Reporter: did your "Chinese bride" appear after the Olympic Games, is it also a manifestation of the awakening of the national spirit?
Guo Pei: we speak of the national spirit. It sounds very big and vague. Actually, this is not the case. According to my understanding, it is respect for the nation.
Marriage is the most important moment in a person's life, forming a small family, and the country is made up of such small families. In this sense, "Chinese bride" is the embodiment and inheritance of a national spirit. I think it is more meaningful than making a dress.
Reporter: you both emphasize the use of Chinese traditional handwork in design and production, which is also emphasizing the inheritance of national culture.
Guo Pei: embroidery is the language and expression of our nation.
The production of big industrialization and the more advanced mechanical production seem to have taken the place of everything. If embroidery is not used, it will be forgotten and the national language will die out.
We began to train embroidery workers from more than ten years ago. We didn't think much about it at the beginning, because we would use it when we made advanced customization. Later, we really felt that it was a mission.
We have set up embroidery schools in Hebei, training embroidery workers every year, letting them realize the significance of manual embroidery, giving them economic benefits, and at the same time, they feel a sense of national pride. While preserving handicrafts, they can also reserve more reserve forces for future Chinese senior costume production.
Reporter: your design emphasizes Chinese elements and Chinese culture. In this international context, does anyone think you have done too much tradition?
Guo Pei: I saw the famous Japanese designer Yamamoto Kansai the day before yesterday. This is the second time we met. He told me that before I met, he met many Chinese designers. Many of them had a very good background in studying abroad, but I really knew China because I could touch him with something.
When he looked at my work in Japan, he couldn't help watching. It was a great recognition to me. He felt that what I did was very style and could represent China.
As far as I am concerned, I will not set my own style according to other people's standards. In the context of internationalization, many things are great, but the most feared thing in design and creation is Datong.
I am now showing abroad, and others are looking at it with a respectful view, not just that I am brilliant.
I earn money to make clothes.
Interviewer: what is the most important thing in your creation?
Guo Pei: actually, my writing space is not large. Most of the time, creation is combined with the needs and requirements of customers. This is called service.
2-3 years of running a show, this is the real thing of my own. My works are showing my inner world. Many people make clothes to make money, and I make money to make clothes and make real clothes.
I am not willing to sell these clothes, that is my heart.
There are two selves in the human being. One is the ideal of reality. If we mix the design with the reality, the ideal and the reality, it will make people very entangled. So whenever you want, you should leave room for yourself, even if it is a small space, so that you can see the real self.
Interpretation of "fashion power list"
I think the word "fashion" is very broad. Everyone has different cognition of it. Even people will have different cognition about it in different time periods.
At this stage of my life, I feel more and more fashionable. It is a kind of "advocating" in the times. This space can be everything that is advocated in this era. All goods, forms and states are all manifestations and manifestations of it.
If I want to be more straightforward, I think it is the return of the national spirit.
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