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Basic Requirements For Qualified Garment Plate Making Teachers

2011/4/28 16:59:00 173

　　 clothing The work of the plate maker seems to be monotonous and monotonous. In fact, there is great flexibility in it. The level of the garment plate maker is also reflected in the change of several figures after the decimal point. This is why the same style of clothing is different from the plate making division, and the clothing effect is often different.

Now many domestic clothing enterprises design more copies of the international style of clothing, but do not know why the costumes do not have the style and charm of the big card. The reason is that the problem is on the version. When you copy it, you only see the style but do not pay much attention to the version. Maybe you notice, but you do not understand how the concept of design is reflected in the version. From the point of view of edition, temperament is more determined by version. For example, the same suit has waist collection, some appear a little more spiritual, some are casual, and a little change in waist line can achieve this effect. Of course, there are other ways. What kind of temperament the clothing reflects is the matter of the print master.

The advanced fashion design requires precise handling of the balance and detail of the structure, and the process is finished on the plate. standard Design, the following is a real case of a clothing company:

In 2004, a senior fashion designer made a research work on plate making technology in a large fashion company in Tianjin. The boss handed it to a woman's cashmere fabric long dress bought from Italy, which was imitated by the designer. The designer told us that the technical director of the company (Tianjin senior master and Japanese prototyping) had not made any success in making four samples before and after.

　　样衣身型为 H 造型略带小 A 造型，腰部设计一条束腰带，大翻驳领型，无结构分割线和省道设计，样衣穿在韩国制造的人台上，结构平衡处理很完美;样衣穿在俄罗斯制造的人台上出现：前衣片短下摆吊起、后衣片长下摆紧贴着小腿部、前门襟 “ 搞口 ” 严重、侧面臂膀袖山至袖根中间处出现横缕、从胸点至前袖隆、从胸点至前胯部分别出现斜缕等现象，这是因为俄罗斯中年女性体型厚、胸部高，造成了服装前后结构失去了平衡所引起的现象，通过这些现象可以说明这件样衣是根据意大利女青年、较薄体型进行的技术性结构设计，版师随后跟老板分析了这件样衣的设计构思，他希望穿在两种体型上都能达到很完美的效果。

The structure balance, combined with the body shape of the Russian table, increases the length of the front waist section and increases the processing capacity of the armpit. According to the idea of "the overall design as the concept of small A modeling", the plate making work is completed quickly. The sample clothing is completed and the sample is successfully made. A sample coat is successfully worn. The 145cm length coat is worn by the Korean and Russian people's desk and the model of the company trying on the clothes. The balance between the detail modeling and the overall modeling and the overall structure of the clothing is perfect. The front door clasp is not "mouthed" or "slippery" when it is not buckled, and the quality of the imitation plate is obviously higher than that of the original sample, and the boss is very satisfied. Therefore, the print master adopts the flat base plate making mode.

The flexibility of plate making is actually in that little bit, which requires savvy and aura, and savvy and aura can not be trained. No training will tell you how much the texture, pattern and texture of each fabric affect the segmentation and looseness of the garment. How to deal with it? These details can not be located, qualitative and quantitative.

But every planner will take into account some of the most basic aspects when making plate making. technology The requirements are summarized in the following aspects:

1, the size standards of all structural parts should be accurate, clear, harmonious and unified.

2, the lines in the picture are thick, thin and straight. The intersection of straight lines must be 90 degrees. The intersection of straight lines should be consistent and smooth, and the intersection of the curves should be round and smooth.

3, all kinds of cartographic data should be enough for the shrinkage of cloth, the shrinkage of sewing process, the volume of the provincial, pleat and pleat arrangement.

4, the direction of the warp, weft, slant, stripe, lattice and light should be clearly marked.

5, the main parts, auxiliary parts and components should be complete and reasonable.

6, the volume of the sample and the welt should be accurate and meet the requirements of the process.

7 the shrinkage ratio of the pattern and the garment sample shall be drawn according to the ratio of 1:400, 1:500 and 1:600````````, and the proportion of the pattern shall be indicated.

8, the whole drawings and drawings should be correct, standard, clear, clean and beautiful.

9, the size of the drawing units is determined by the national legal unit of size: CM (centimeter), of course, some factories are also useful in inches.

10, the terms and symbols of cartography should be unified and standard.